Doughs:

There is debate when using fresh pasta sheets for lasagna, whether to blanch the pasta or not. I do a quick blanch as I prefer that texture. Without it, the pasta will take longer to cook

This is for a standard 9x13 dish

Any lasagna can be assembled in advance. Refrigerate the unbaked lasagna for up to 24 hours, or freeze it in a disposable dish, tightly wrapped in plastic and then foil, for 2 to 3 months. Defrost a frozen lasagna in the refrigerator overnight, and let a cold lasagna stand at room temperature for an hour before baking. And, just in case, increase the lasagna’s covered baking time by 20 minutes.

Bolognese-Style Meat Lasagne (Lasagne alla Bolognese)

1 batch Standard Egg Pasta Dough or Green Colorful Egg Pasta Dough

2 batches Casual Bolognese or, for a vegetarian-friendly version, Meatiest Meatless Ragù

1 batch Besciamella

3½ ounces (100 grams) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Portofino-Style Pesto Lasagne (Lasagne alla Portofino)

1 batch Standard Egg Pasta Dough

1½ batches Basil Pesto

1 batch Besciamella

16 to 20 thin slices provolone (optional) 2 ounces (55 grams) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Cheesy Spinach Lasagne

1 batch Standard Egg Pasta Dough

1½ batches Any-Greens Filling

16 ounces (450 grams) full-fat ricotta

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 batch Besciamella, Cheesy Spinach Lasagne variation

2 ounces (55 grams) grated Fontina and/or low-moisture mozzarella, for topping

1 ounce (30 grams) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, for topping

Omit the mozzarella from the Any-Greens Filling, if you’d like.

Add the ricotta to the food processor with the Any-Greens Filling and pulse until combined but not pureed, then fold in the egg.

Autumn Squash Lasagne

1 batch Standard Egg Pasta Dough

1½ batches Winter Squash & Brown Butter Filling

8 ounces (225 grams) full-fat ricotta

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 batch oven-caramelized red or yellow onions from the Smoky Caramelized Onion Filling

1 batch Besciamella, Autumn Squash Lasagne Variation

2 ounces (55 grams) grated Fontina, Gruyère, and/or Asiago, for topping

1 ounce (30 grams) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, for topping

16 fried sage leaves, for topping post-bake

Omit the brown butter from the Winter Squash Filling, if you’d like.

Add the ricotta to the food processor with the Winter Squash Filling and pulse until well-combined, then fold in the egg.

You can use red onions for color.

MAKE THE COMPONENTS

Make your dough, filling(s), and/or sauce(s) of choice; if using besciamella, hold off for now. Grate your cheese.

ROLL AND BLANCH THE PASTA

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it generously. Fill a large bowl with ice water. Line a sheet pan with a clean, tightly woven (not terry cloth) dishcloth and keep a few more on hand.

Roll a quarter of your pasta dough, stopping at setting 6 for both a Marcato and KitchenAid machine. Cut the sheet into about 6-inch (15-cm) squares—the size doesn’t really matter; you’ll be cutting them again to fill your dish. Ball up any scraps and cover them—they can be rerolled at the end if needed. Depending on your counter space, roll and cut as much of the remaining dough as you can.

Drop four to five pasta squares into the boiling water and gently stir. Cook for 30 seconds, then use a spider sieve and/or tongs to carefully transfer to the ice water. Arrange the pasta in a single layer on the dishcloth and pat dry. Repeat with the remaining squares, layering them between clean dishcloths.

MAKE THE BESCIAMELLA AND PREHEAT THE OVEN

Make the besciamella or, for the Cheesy Spinach Lasagne and Autumn Squash Lasagne, make the suggested variations. Heat the oven to 375°F/190°C.

ASSEMBLE THE LASAGNE

Grease your baking dish with butter or oil.

FOR BOLOGNESE-STYLE MEAT LASAGNE

Ladle some besciamella into the dish, spreading it out in a thin layer with the bottom of the ladle or a spoon. Layer some pasta on top to fill the dish, cutting and overlapping the pieces as needed (for crispy edges, let some of the pasta go up the sides of the dish). Spoon over a layer of meat sauce and spread it across the pasta using the back of the spoon or spatula—don’t worry if there are gaps. Then add another layer of besciamella, spreading it over the sauce, and sprinkle with Parmigiano-Reggiano. Repeat (pasta, sauce, besciamella, Parmigiano), ending with pasta, then the remaining sauce, followed by the remaining besciamella, and top with plenty of Parmigiano-Reggiano.

FOR PORTOFINO-STYLE PESTO LASAGNE

Ladle some besciamella into the dish, spreading it out in a thin layer with the bottom of the ladle or a spoon. Layer some pasta on top to fill the dish, cutting and overlapping the pieces as needed (for crispy edges, let some of the pasta go up the sides of the dish). Ladle another layer of besciamella on top, then spoon over some of the pesto and spread it across the pasta using the back of the spoon or spatula—don’t worry if there are gaps. Layer a few slices of provolone on top, if using. Repeat (pasta, besciamella, pesto, provolone) ending with pasta, then pesto, followed by besciamella, and finishing with the Parmigiano-Reggiano.

FOR CHEESY SPINACH LASAGNE

Ladle some besciamella into the dish, spreading it out in a thin layer with the bottom of the ladle or a spoon. Layer some pasta on top to fill the dish, cutting and overlapping the pieces as needed (for crispy edges, let some of the pasta go up the sides of the dish). Spoon over a layer of greens filling and spread it across the pasta using the back of the spoon or a spatula—don’t worry if there are gaps. Then add another layer of besciamella. Repeat (pasta, greens, besciamella), ending with pasta, then greens, then besciamella, and finish with plenty of grated Fontina, low-moisture mozzarella, and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

FOR AUTUMN SQUASH LASAGNE

Ladle some besciamella into the dish, spreading it out in a thin layer with the bottom of the ladle or a spoon. Layer some pasta on top to fill the dish, cutting and overlapping the pieces as needed (for crispy edges, let some of the pasta go up the sides of the dish). Spoon over a layer of squash filling and spread it across the pasta using the back of the spoon or a spatula—don’t worry if there are gaps. Then scatter some caramelized onions on top, followed by another layer of besciamella. Repeat (pasta, squash, onions, besciamella), ending with pasta, then squash, then besciamella, then onions, and finish with plenty of grated Fontina, Asiago, and/or Gruyère, and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

BAKE THE LASAGNA

Cover the baking dish with foil and bake on the middle rack for 30 minutes. Uncover and bake until bubbling and golden around the edges, 15 to 20 minutes more. Broil the top for a few minutes for extra color. Remove from the oven and let stand for 15 to 30 minutes before serving. If making the Autumn Squash Lasagne, scatter the fried sage on top.